Bergkloster 'Solera' Riesling
Let’s talk about solera real quick! Solera is a process for aging liquids (wine, beer, vinegar, brandy) by blending a little bit of each year. So a little 2020 goes into the barrel of 2021 and then a little 2021 (that had the 2020 already in) goes into 2022 etc. etc.
Once your solera system is going strong, the finished product will be a mixture of ages, with the average age gradually increasing as the process continues over many years. This kind of solera is very common with vinegars and sherries.
The concept is ancient and the idea can be simplified by the old adage “the old is teaching the young” - a concept I am embracing as I age - LOL!
For this version, things are a bit different but the idea remains the same - the older wine is ‘teaching’ the younger wine!
With vineyards situated in the land of a thousand hills also known as Wonnegau, these grapes are blessed with consistent sun and lovely temperatures allowing them to ripen well.
And with roots that go back to their Huguenot ancestors, Vineyard Bergkloster is now about 120 years ago. The Westhofen region is the land the Romans had grapes over 1200-years ago and the family (Paul-Gerhard Groebe, Cornelia Groebe and their three children – supported by the mother and grandmother, Anni Groeb) is the 4th generation to grow grapes and make wines in the old ways. They believe in honoring traditional methods and do not spray or use any additives in the cellar (duh!!). They believe that nature is the best teacher! "we must to trust it and to have patience and humility. This absolute dependence makes us realize each year anew that we don’t have control and have to let go and trust nature."
So on to the wine at last - this ‘Solera’ is a combination of 2-vintages from the same vineyard (2019 & 2020) and it is a crazy-good wine!! Maybe the old has something to teach the young after all 😁
Complex, beguiling and utterly transfixing. With bright minerality, structure and acidity that feels like walking a tightrope. There is ripe citrus and slightly under-ripe shiro plums or is that white nectarines? Definitely orchard fruits with a tiny hint of petrol that is classic to older Rieslings! YES PLEASE!!
Tbh friends, I was a bit skeptical when this wine was mentioned to me - but it is so freaking good that I wanted to share it with you. I think we will begin to see more innovative approaches as climate change affects the wine world more and more so I’m leaning into change and sipping a bit of this, I may even feel a little hopeful. Hope you do too!