Vouette & Sorbee ‘Fidele’
Champagne - how I love you! And this one — oolala! If you find yourself anywhere in the region of Champagne and you mention Vouette & Sorbee or Bertrand, you will get one of two responses. Conventional Champagne houses will be derisive - dismissive and possibly downright rude. But anyone who makes recolant (actually grows the grapes and makes the wine) will tell you how incredible this champagne is. Every time I have had the good fortune to be in this part of the world, I am told that I must visit Bertrand - I must try his wines! Luckily, I listened many years ago and now I am obsessed!!
When he first took over the family vineyards (Vouette & Sorbee are literally the name of two vineyards), Bertrand planned to continue the conventional ‘echelle system’ of selling to the big houses and with some of the best plots in the region, his grapes were sought after & well-paid for. Inspired by friends Jérôme Prévost and Pierre Larmandie, Bertrand decided he wanted to make his own wine rather than sell. Then he and his wife decided they wanted to raise their children in the vineyards without fear of chemicals & he went biodynamic! For me, this is when his champagne really became EPIC AF!
In 1998, the conversion of his vineyards to biodynamic was complete and he released his first Champagne in 2001. And lucky for him , the vineyards are located in the Côte des Bar where the soil is more like Chablis – dense, rocky, Kimmeridgian, and Portlandian limestone clay soils.
Fidèle is 100% Pinot Noir mainly from the lieux-dits (small vineyards) located in Fonnet and Briaunes - occasionally, Bertrand adds some Pinot from the other parcels that he farms. It is always fermented in neutral oak then the juice spends about 2-years (give or take) on the lees. Resulting still wine is bottled with ZERO DOSAGE!! Come by and ask about dosage if you have any questions 🙂it's actually a fun convo!!
With distinct red fruit (cherry, red currants) & toasty brioche notes, this is a classic Champagne. The long time with the lees brings a lush, rich mouth feel that is creamy lemon curd while being balanced & unctuous! Hard to believe there is no dosage cuz it is a lively and dangerously tasty Champagne that will be my go-to whenever I can find it. Absolutely perfect for this time of year and since he makes so little, I’d say get it while you can!!